Wednesday, March 29, 2017

Happy in Hopkins

Packing up our things to leave the jungle was pretty tough for all of us.  We had an incredible few days there and would go back in a heartbeat!  However, it was time to move on and explore another part of Belize.  So we traded in our jungle-chic accommodations for a small, rustic stilt house in Hopkins ... a tiny coastal village 1 and 1/2 hrs south of our previous stop.

arriving in Hopkins  ... our driver took this shot ;)
our Airbnb rental
the view from our front porch - the beach was just across the road :)
Hopkins stretches about 1.5 miles along the coast and is set off the main hwy by about 5 miles.  You don't just happen upon this place ... you definitely have to plan to go there.  Until only 3 yrs ago, the main road into the village was unpaved.  Before then, we were told that you needed a PhD to drive to Hopkins ... a Pot-hole Dodger πŸ˜‰   Now that it is more accessible, tourists have started to discover it.  Thankfully they have not arrived in droves like they have to other neighboring beach towns.  We actually chose Hopkins because we heard it was more off-the-beaten-path, less touristed and had a more laid back feel.  And Hopkins is all those things and more!  It is a friendly, slightly scruffy and very dusty village (no paved roads) or more accurately ... Garifuna settlement.  The Garifuna people are of African descent and are beautiful, hospitable and incredibly chill people.  Their skin is ultra black which helps to show off some big smiles.  With our fair skin, light hair and lack of dreadlocks, we didn't exactly blend in...lol!   "Don't worry mun, evree'ting will be awright" and "reelax mun, no worry, be happy!" are expressions we heard on a daily basis.  It goes without saying ... no shirt, no shoes, no helmets ... NO PROBLEM!

Picture large groups of locals sitting outside their homes, playing cards, children playing on the road, reggae music filtering from open doors and windows and you start to get a feel for the vibe of Hopkins.


When doing research for this trip, I read about the Garifuna culture and was drawn in particular to the descriptions of their music ... particularly drumming.  Morning, noon and night, whenever we rode our bikes through the village, we could hear locals drumming.  Last Saturday, we stopped at a local restaurant to sit down and really enjoy the local entertainment.  Here's a clip for you:

One afternoon, Jeff and the kids went out looking for seashells, and came across a sweet little guy living with his family a ways down the beach.  His name was Norman.   Stella really wanted to find some particular shells and he told us where we might find them.  Max and Norman kicked around a soccer ball and made plans to hang out again the next day.  We picked Norman up on our way to a resort down the beach from us. He joined us for a day of drinks and snacks by the pool.  He and the kids went snorkeling and saw some barracudas, needle fish, and even found a beautiful starfish.     


 We spent our 5 days in Hopkins traveling around on foot, by bike (our Airbnb provided 4 bikes for us to use) and by golf cart. 

rope!... a speed bump in Hopkins

Sad that this will all be a collection of fond memories soon.  I'm grateful for the opportunity to travel and explore new places on this beautiful planet of ours and am particularly thankful that I get to share these experiences and make these memories WITH my family.  It wasn't a long trip ... but it was a great one ...










Thursday, March 23, 2017

In the Jungle ....


We left the idyllic blue waters and carefree island life on Monday to begin a new adventure about 2 hours inland Belize.  On our way to our second stop, we visited the Belize Zoo.  It runs as a rehabilitation center for injured, orphaned and rescued Belizean jungle animals.  It is not located near the city but rather an hour away so these animals are in their natural habitat.  Jeff and I were blown away by the size of the enclosures and beautiful jungle setting of the zoo.  Stella and Max were mesmerized and couldn't take enough pictures of the 125 species of creatures and birds that call Belize home.

"Junior" the jaguar
a baby howler monkey
family of howler monkeys playing and eating just a few feet above our heads
a toucan!





About an hour later, we arrived at our eco-lodge hidden away in the dense jungle off Hummingbird Hwy.  Sitting on 98,000 acres, this is the place to be for a variety of jungle activities and tours.  On our first full day, we went on a River Cave Tubing adventure.  We started on a bus that bumped along for 20 minutes on a dirt road through orange groves.  Then we grabbed our tubes, helmets and headlamps and hiked another 10 min down to the river.  From there we hand paddled up stream for a few minutes to the mouth of an ancient Mayan cave. 





Once inside the cave, we spent about 3 hours in complete and total darkness (except for the light of our headlamps)  doing a mixture of walking and paddling.  At one point we climbed up into a cavern that was 70 ft above the river.  Our guide pointed out many creatures including bats and scorpion spiders!   She also showed us many Mayan relics like broken pottery, flint, grinding stones and fire pits that were all part of their sacred ceremonies.  She explained that long ago, the Mayans would enter this cave to perform ceremonies to their gods.  Most of these ceremonies included blood letting and human sacrifices.  While archeologists have not found any human skeletal remains in the lower regions of this cave, they have uncovered many in the upper chambers.  They have even uncovered Mayan footprints calcified in the rock that give the cave its name - Footprint Cave.  

statue of a fertility god lit up by a headlamp
backlit by other headlamps to illuminate us in the pitch black

Our guides provided a picnic style lunch for us inside the cave before we began our float down the slow moving river.  






I was curious how the kids would do on such an intense, adventurous and potentially frightening tour.  They were not scared at all and in fact, a little bit intrigued by the stories!  They climbed and maneuvered themselves into places far more easily than the adults could.  Go figure.



Our second day at the lodge, we went ziplining!!!!   It was hard to tell exactly how high you were in the air when the jungle canopy below was so dense.  We did get to go on one that was over a river and 1,000 ft long!  Stella, like the monkey that she is, couldn't get enough and was sometimes done the next zipline before we even got there.  Max on the other hand, was intimidated by the height of the platforms and speed in which we zipped along.  We thought it would take a generous amount of coaxing for him to complete the course and were even thinking of a plan B when Max surprised us all and stepped off the platform ... again and again.  So proud of him!  And guess what?  Now he can't stop talking about the experience and counts it as one of the favorite things he's done in Belize so far.  Go figure. 






Since ziplining only took a couple of hours, we decided to check out the Blue Hole National Park across the road from our lodge.  It was incredibly picturesque and we were surprised to see no one else there!  After a long, hot, dusty walk to get there, we all jumped in the water right away!  The water was refreshing (not cold) and crystal clear ... we could see a number of fish swimming around!  The fish were about 6 inches long and were very curious.  They kept swimming up to us and surrounding us.  Not exactly my cup of tea 
but ... 'when in Rome'....





I think one of my favorite parts of this leg of the journey has been the atmosphere at the lodge we stayed at.  The breakfast and dinners were served family style which meant that we all ate together at a specific time and had table numbers assigned that were changed up each day to provide us the opportunity to interact with a variety of fellow travelers.  The staff even turned the wifi off at meal times ... a brilliant move to remove all distractions.  The dinners included 3 courses that were each announced by a staff member who described to us in detail what each dish was.  Soooo many choices and incredibly delicious homemade food from the region.  We did not go hungry!!!

just before everyone arrived for dinner
making fresh squeezed orange juice at breakfast
beautiful setting

Last but not least, as part of the jungle experience, our cabana was completely screened in to allow the, how shall I put this, the SYMPHONY of nature surround us.   Each and every night, we fell asleep to a cacophony of sounds and each night we were jolted out of our sleep to the calls of howler monkeys!  Thankfully, they only make their noises for approximately 15-20 min at a time.  I don't know exactly how to describe their sound to do it justice.  All I can say is that it sounds like something out of Jurassic Park ... a lot more like a dinosaurs' roar than the cute ooo ooo eeee eeee sounds that some other monkeys make.  
In the jungle, the mighty jungle, the howler monkeys don't sleep at night!  😯

Sunday, March 19, 2017

unBELIZEable!


It is.  unBELIZEable.  Only a few days into the journey and I tend to agree with the locals who like to use this phrase a lot.
no filters ... seriously.

We were more than ready to embark on another adventure.  4 years ago this week, Max had his appendix removed in Bolivia.  It's been 4 years since we've donned our backpacks.  4 years since we set a course for places unknown and unfamiliar.  It was time. 
With only a 2 week break, we thought we'd pick somewhere not too far away and a country not so big that we couldn't explore a few different parts of it.  As we started to dream, we found out that West Jet had recently opened flights to Belize and the price was right!  So in the spirit of the Ikea commercial .... "start the car!!!" (not that we were going to drive but you get the point)

So today, I write to you from a little island (1 &1/2 hr ferry ride) off the coast of Belize called Ambergis Caye.  All these years when I've sang along to Madonna's song about her dreams of San Pedro, I had no idea she was referring to the capital of this island which has adopted the nickname 'La Isla Bonita'.
🎡Tropical the island breeze
All of nature wild and free
This is where I long to be
La isla bonita

The island is charming, laid back, and simple.  The mode of transportation out here is either by boat or golf cart.  It is either a 20 min boat ride to town from where we are staying or a 50 min golf cart ride.  Guess which one the kids wanted to do?  The roads outside of town are not paved and full of potholes but the journey might have been more fun than the destination itself.

island speed ...

"I've got it pinned, Dad!" πŸ˜‰
Where we bought our groceries for our stay.  Not exactly the same selection as Superstore, but it suited us just fine :)
golf cart mecca


While exploring the town and walking along the beach, we came across a water slide that was too irresistible to pass by.  Hanging out on the dock, we made a new friend named 'Jumbo' ... a sweet dog who swam with us and loved to play fetch with coconuts. 



Ambergis Caye is also famous for its diving and snorkeling.  Yesterday we went on a snorkeling tour which included 2 stops.  One was at Hol Chan Marine Reserve - part of the barrier reef which is only a half mile offshore.  Wish I had an underwater camera to capture the spectacular coral formations and diverse marine life!  We saw all kinds of different fish including a barracuda plus a moray eel, eagle rays, sting rays and even a couple of nurse sharks!  Our guide 'Pepper' was able to help us spot things and tell us the names of the creatures we were seeing.  From there we cruised over to a place called Shark Ray Alley.  It was traditionally a place for local fishermen to clean fish but the many creatures attracted to the fish guts ended up becoming a tourist attraction.  As soon as we arrived (hadn't even turned off the motor) our boat was surrounded by at least 20 small and some not so small and intimidating nurse sharks.  Apparently, when they hear the hum of a boat motor, it is like a dinner bell summoning them to be fed.   We were told they aren't aggressive and were far more interested in the food 'Pepper' brought along than us.  Never the less, it took me a few minutes to work up the courage to jump into waters that are teaming with SHARKS!!!! 😱  Jeff jumped first, with no hesitation, and was even broadsided by a few of the sharks.  I went in after snapping a few quick photos of our guide feeding them and was not sure where to jump in at first as not to land on top of one of them!  The kids took a few more minutes to find their nerve and then jumped in to watch the sharks feed.  Below us, there were also several sting rays swimming around in the relatively shallow waters.  One was the size of a queen bed!  You should have heard all the muffled squeaks and squeals as we felt surrounded by LARGE marine life!  It truly was a once in a lifetime snorkel!



Tomorrow we leave for our second of 3 stops in Belize.  We have had a very relaxing time here on the island 😎



Is this a photo or a painting?