Saturday, March 23, 2013

Emergencia!!

"TAXI!  TAXI!",  we called, clutching a sleepy Stella and Max while trying to free one of our arms to wave down a cab.  Much to our surprise, it was not as easy as we thought to catch a ride at 3:45 a.m. in La Paz, Bolivia.  We remembered that it was a Saturday night and were told later that some bars are just opening their doors at 4 a.m.
A while later, we handed an address of a clinic to a taxi driver.  (Earlier that evening, the lady we rented our apartment from, gave us the name of a 24 hr clinic that we could go to that was not far from where we were staying, should Max's condition get any worse).  Five minutes later, we pulled up to the clinic .... it was dark inside, the glass doors were chained shut and there was no sign of life.         24 hr clinic, huh?
As I walked up the front steps I could see a faint light on somewhere inside the building so I knocked, ok I banged, on the front doors.  No luck.  I noticed a switch - was it a door bell?  I tried that too.  That's when I spotted another button and figured pushing that couldn't hurt either.  Still no luck. 
Just as I was about to give up, a man in some scrubs shuffled to the front door, rubbing his eyes as if to make it clear that I had woken him up.  In my broken, limited Spanish, I told him that my child was sick.  I passed him a piece of paper through the crack in the glass doors that had all of Max's symptoms listed on it with some of our concerns and observations from the previous day.  Thanks to google translator, we were able to write a full page description in Spanish, before we left the apartment. 
The man took a very brief moment to scan the paper and then folded it up and handed it back to me through the crack.  He started to speak in Spanish, and even with my limited vocabulary in Spanish, I was able to decipher the words:  Hospital and Emergencia!  By this time, the taxi driver had joined me at the front door and heard for himself what our next destination would be.
Speeding away from the clinic, we headed in a direction of the city that was unfamiliar to us.  We sped past many cars and taxis on some pretty narrow, windy streets.  When our driver turned off the 'main' roads onto some darker, cobblestone lanes, I sincerely questioned his motives and my concern turned to panic!  Where was this guy taking us?   I was no longer just worried about Max but wondered about ALL our safety!  Just as I turned to whisper to Jeff and formulate a plan, we turned back onto a busier street with more traffic.  Sigh.  How far away was this Hospital?!!
What felt like an eternity later, real time probably only 10 minutes, we pulled up to a small building with the words "Emergencia" on the doors.  It didn't look anything like a Hospital but we noticed the next day that it was attached to the side of a 4 story building.  We payed the taxi driver (a whopping $2 and tip) and walked through the doors.  There was a lone guy sitting at an old wooden desk that stood up to assist us.  Only two other guys sat on wooden benches in the small, quiet waiting area.  I handed the man that same piece of paper and after he read it, he motioned for us to follow him through some swinging doors.  Jeff carried a very sleepy, very hot little boy to the first curtain area and laid him on the bed.  Scanning the ER, I was relieved to see that it was clean, orderly and quiet.  Not as modern, equipped and comfortable by North American standards but truly not too bad at all ... slight exhale.
Max was examined by a doctor.  And then another.  And then another.  Not one spoke any English whatsoever but all read our trusty piece of paper.  Nurses assisted with taking Max's vitals and then finally Juan Pablo, a young intern, arrived who spoke English very well ...  bigger exhale.
And interestingly enough, everything seemed to shift into high gear when we uttered the words, "Yes, we have travel insurance."


X-rays, ultrasound, urine sample, blood work, some 8-10 other doctor's examinations & opinions and 16 long Bolivian hours later ......


heading into surgery for an emergency appendectomy

After surgery, we got to have a look at Max's appendix ... only in Bolivia :)

surgeon confirmed it was inflamed and could have ruptured at anytime


Interestingly enough, we rushed to the Hospital that night wanting to be reassured that Max was not suffering from High Altitude sickness.  We had only been in La Paz for a few days and all of us were feeling the effects of living at close to 13,000 ft. (fatigue, dizziness, insomnia, throbbing headache, lack of appetite, shortness of breath, rapid pulse, nausea and even vomiting).   Max had complained of some tummy pain a couple of days prior, mentioned it again maybe one more time, but was not suffering any intense pain.  He had a very high fever that we couldn't keep down with Children's Advil and when he vomited in the middle of the night, it was a small, clear amount but it had some trace amounts of blood in it.  That's when we didn't want to take any chances and headed for the clinic.   It took hours and hours for the doctors to make the final diagnosis.  One was convinced it was sinusitis.  Another doctor thought it was a bladder infection.  Thankfully, no one rushed us into surgery until they were confident it was his appendix.  It was definitely a process of elimination, persistent questions and time that revealed what was really going on with Max.

It was definitely a scary experience but our care in the hospital was really good and over the 7 days we were there, we met some wonderful people!  In particular, the family we had rented our apartment from became our angels and took such loving care of us - especially Stella, as Jeff and I spent our days and nights in Max's hospital room.







When Max headed in for his surgery, both Jeff and I knew that our travel plans were going to change pretty drastically.  We knew that the best decision for our family would be to head home as soon as the doctor gave his ok for Max to travel.  Our decision was confirmed by the surgeon who said that Max needed to take it easy for a few weeks which definitely did not include climbing Machu Picchu.  It just wasn't worth the risk to us to head to remote areas of Bolivia and Peru where there were few, if any, medical facilities.   So this week, we took five different airplanes over the course of three days, to travel back home to Armstrong.  And honestly, this whole ordeal knocked the wind right out of our sails and exhausted us physically, mentally and emotionally ... not sure we had the 'umph' to carry on truthfully.  One day though, we would love to go back to the country where Max left a little piece of himself :)  We really want to go back and visit the amazing family that took such good care of us and became our friends.  We would love to carry on where we left off and go see the massive Salt Flats in Bolivia, explore the islands on Lake Titicaca and finally check off one of our bucket list items and climb Machu Picchu.   We will finish this trip!

Although our experience in Bolivia didn't turn out the way we had planned and hoped, we shared some great memories there too and I will write about some of our happier adventures and share some pictures just as soon as I get the chance. 



Thursday, March 7, 2013

Chiloe Island

This afternoon I sat down with my 5 year old to ask him his thoughts on the past weekend.  Here's our interview:

Mom:  Where did we go on the weekend?
Max:   To a big island in the ocean
Mom:  How did we get there?
Max:   We went on a ferry and then we drove on the island.  The ferry was a small boat - it could take 4 lines of cars.
Mom:  How long was the trip?
Max:   4 hours???
Mom:  No buddy,  it only took 30 minutes.


Mom:  Do you remember the name of the first town we stayed in?
Max:   No
Mom:  Starts with An.......
Max:   Antarctica?
Mom:  Umm no.  Ancud.  What did we do in Ancud that was pretty special?
Max:   We went to see penguins where they live.  We went on this boat ride to see them.  They were on these little rock mountains and they laid their nests on these flat surfaces.  They were standing in front of their nests.  They were cool.  
Mom:  How many did you see?
Max:   About 60 
Mom:  Ya, that sounds about right!
Max:    What kind of penguins were they again?
Mom:  We saw some Humboldt but mostly Magellan penguins.
Max:    One there was like Happy Feet.  He had a grey coat on his body and black stripes.  He was a disco party dancer!
Max:    And we saw sea otters and then we saw a sea lion sleeping on the rocks.  And we saw lots and lots of big birds.
Mom:  Those birds were called cormorants.

first windy/cloudy day we've had
playful sea otter
I love these little guys!!!
can you spot the cormorant?
standing watch outside their burrows





Mom:  After we saw the penguins we drove 100 kms down the island to a city called Castro.  What did you think of that place?
Max:   Uh.... that's where we went on some bouncy castles right?  There was a tiger one you had to go through his mouth to get in.  And we went down to the ocean and I found a little crab - he was camouflaged in the shells.

traditional 'palafito' houses & restaurants

our crab hunters hard at work
Chiloe's biggest wooden church ... there are 4 other UNESCO churches on the island.  Stella really loved the colors!  

There you have it ... a short and sweet blog post thanks to Max.  I did this interview with him a few days ago but we have not had a very strong or reliable connection to the internet here in Bolivia to post it.   We arrived in La Paz yesterday and have been trying to catch our breath (literally).  I'm excited to tell you all about it in the next post!

Sunday, March 3, 2013

The Road to Caburgua



"Two roads diverged in a wood and I - I took the one less traveled by"  Robert Frost

Odometer reading:   2589 kms since we picked up our rental car a week and a half ago.  I guess you could say we are definitely getting a sense for just how  L  O  N  G  of a country Chile is!!  11 toll booths, 16 AA batteries (for the kids' leap pads), 73 bathroom breaks (give or take :) and a few days later, we arrived smack dab in the middle of the Lake District.   The latest stretch wasn't entirely void of fun for the kids - we made sure to stop at playgrounds and even found a great water park to spend a few hours one day.


"these stops are for the kids' sake" ... sure Jeff



same, same but different
The quaint city of Pucon (in the heart of the Lake District) is a mecca for outdoor adventure and throngs of people flock here for their summer vacations.   The place has a rustic Whistler vibe and the outskirts of town felt a lot like driving along the north side of Shuswap Lake - this is Chilean cottage country.  Pucon is the largest town in the area and it sits at the end of lake Villarica.  It is surrounded by national parks, mountains, waterfalls, rivers, lakes .... but the highlight is definitely the smoking volcano which is visible from almost everywhere.



We knew this would be one of the longer stops on our itinerary so we spent some time before the trip looking at accommodation options and settled on a cool, country cabin outside of town ... on the road to Caburgua.  As it turned out, all the activities we chose to do were on this stretch of road and it suited us just fine to be out of the touristy town.  It sure was nice to have some space to spread out and cook some of our own meals!  We're growing tired of the hot dogs and empenadas that are on every menu and at every gas station.  We are really enjoying the abundance of fruit but for a country this fertile, we're having a hard time finding vegetables!??  The kids had fun adventuring around the cabin and playing in the 'observatory' loft which was screened in and had a rope ladder up to it on the 3rd floor.   Stella found blackberry bushes and we picked heaps of them for snacks and added them to our yogurt and granola in the morning. 


This is Sebastian - the builder/owner of the cabin

So much to do, so little time really ....

 
perfectly peaceful!   
  
the view after hiking 2 hours ... mostly uphill
 
standing in the ski hill parking lot
who can resist a game of mini golf?!

The volcanic activity has led to the existence of numerous hot springs in the area.  In fact, if you stayed here for a couple of weeks and went to a different one each day, you still wouldn't visit them all.  The more modern/developed ones are unbelievably expensive.  Would you believe it would have cost our family $120 to go to the nicest ones in the area?!  I'm sure you can hear Jeff joking, "We don't want to purchase the hot springs, we just want to soak for a couple of hours!!"  Thankfully, many other hot springs were more rustic and a lot less expensive.  

Thermas Pozones
one of 6 pools
each pool had a slightly different temperature

Hard to believe summer holidays are coming to end here in Chile.  Children are getting ready to go back to school at the beginning of March and the mornings have that 'cool, dew-y, Fall is in the air' feel to them.  The Normandeaus are confused ... we have gone from winter - summer - fall in a relatively short time frame and will be home in the spring in just over a month.